The weather in Batanes is pretty hard to predict, owing largely to its remote location. It can be raining pretty heavily in Manila, but it’d be bright and sunny in Batanes. The typhoon that was ravaging the rest of the country that weekend was already on its way out when it entered the Philippine area of responsibility for the second time. It was too far to affect Batanes with heavy rains, but it still made an impact with the strong winds that blew through the town.

Eric’s photoshoot?

So what do you do when your vacation get rained in Batanes? You stay put and relax. Of course, you can try your luck to sightsee, but what’s the fun in doing that amidst the rain and the wind? And that’s how we spent the rest of Day 2 and the whole of Day 3 in Batanes. We caught up on sleep, and really rested — something we don’t really do when we go on our weekend jaunts. It was a refreshing change, and judging by the way everybody is snoring, it seems it was exactly what we needed.

The great thing about the rain and the drop in temperature though was that I was able to test how my Waypoint Softshell Jacket fared in the pouring rain. The wind was too strong, that I didn’t bother using my folding umbrella (it would just be a waste of a perfectly good brolly), so I settled to walking around the streets of Basco wearing my Columbia jacket to keep my upper body dry. My legs were another story though, and my shorts were soaked through. Luckily, it was my Clearlake Convertible Pants that I was wearing, so it wasn’t heavy even when wet and it dried quickly, thanks to the Omni-Dry technology.

With Melo and Eric before embarking on the quest to find the Internet cafe.
Photo by Dino de Leon

We might have been rained out in Batanes, but thanks to it, we were able to enjoy the simple pleasures in life: great home cooked meals (courtesy of Melo and yours truly), sleeping in, running around in the rain, junk food, Cloud 9 and Big Bang chocolates.

My Columbia gear was given to me for the Mt. Daguldol hike. Since then, I have been wearing them whenever I travel (sometimes even when I just want to dress down). Now you too can give the gift of adventure! Log on to www.columbiaadventure.com, send out three postcards of either the Palawan Hornbill or the scenic Mayoyao. Doing so would help in educating the local Palawan and Mayoyao guides in the science of outdoor adventure and gearing up in Columbia Sportswear. As an added treat, you also get to bring home limited exclusive items from Columbia Sportswear.

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The streets of Batan island were dark, specially in areas where there aren’t any houses. Road improvement were ongoing, and the roadworks were marked by lanterns strewn along the cordons that line the pavement. Soon we were rewarded with a gorgeous pink sky that marks the start of a new day. This beautiful sunrise raised our spirits, taking it as a sign that we’re going to have another sunny day in Batanes.

The road to Savidug

We waited at the jetty, warily eyeing this small faluwa boat that will take us to Sabtang. It’s lower than the other boats I’ve ridden, and unlike outrigger boats, this one does not have
bamboo poles on the side to help it keep its balance. Because the waters between Batan and Sabtang are very rough (it’s where the Pacific Ocean and the South China Sea meet), the faluwa is constructed in such a way that it will ride the waves, rather than go against it. The boatman arrived and he went onboard to prepare the small boat for sailing. More people arrived and soon enough, we set sail for Sabtang. The sea was still fairly calm early in the morning. I felt some dread as I look out across the sea towards Sabtang — the boat was rocking in a way I’m not used to, and it looks like there’s rain coming our way. Luckily, it was just a slight drizzle, and it passed us quickly enough, but it did not help ease my queasy stomach.

Stone house in Savidug

I heaved a huge sigh of relief as we docked into Sabtang. Due to the pounding surf, disembarking from the faluwa is a rather clumsy (and scary) affair. Thanks to my urgent need to find a rest room, I was able to jump out of the boat in one try and I quickly trotted off to the toilet and said goodbye to my breakfast. Relieved of my seasickness, I was back in high spirits and looked forward to the day’s exploration of Sabtang island.

Chavayan

We rented a jeep for Php 1,500 for a half day tour. We drove to several communities, including the towns of Savidug and Chavayan. Sabtang towns are small, and far in between. Stone houses line the strip of national highway that goes through the town. As we go down to take pictures, we were just given a cursory glance by the residents already used to tourists flocking to their town and taking pictures of everything they set eyes on. The Ivatans are very accommodating, and we feel their warm welcome as they greet us good morning as we walk around, even stopping to chat with us.

After the two stops in Savidug and Chavayan, we headed back to San Vicente for lunch. Stopping briefly to pick up our picnic lunch at RCJ’s Food Hut, we proceeded to the Nakanmuan Arc. It’s under this beautiful natural arc that we had our lunch, right on the beautiful white sand beach of Sabtang. For only Php 250, we dined on Coconut crab locally known as Tatus, fried fish in sweet sauce, steamed sigarillas and rice, accompanied by fresh buko juice. Spectacular views, delectable food and great company, what more can you ask for? This is easily the best value meals I’ve ever had this year.

Sunday morning with the Chavayans

Shortly after lunch, we raced back to San Vicente, to catch the boat back to Batan. Unless you’re staying overnight in Sabtang, tours around the island are limited only in the mornings. Due to the rising tide in the afternoon, there are no boats going to and from the island late in the afternoon. We missed the 12:30 boat back to Batan island, but luckily, there was another one leaving at 1:30. Unfortunately, by this time, it started to drizzle and the waves and the wind has picked up. We were lucky Dino brought a couple of Sea to Summit Dry Sacks that kept our cameras dry.

Thanks with the heady smell of gasoline inside the faluwa and the rocking of the boat, there was an impromptu fish feeding session, courtesy of Marc and I. This trip to Batanes is gathering up a number of most memorable moments, and this particular boat ride is yet another one. I have experience a worse crossing in between Batangas and Puerto Galera in the middle of a storm, but I was able to keep my breakfast that time. Thanks to this faluwa boat experience, I’m not looking forward to go on another boat ride anytime soon.

Nakanmuan Arc

Everybody was relieved when the Ivana port came into view. Disembarking is another tricky maneuver, but similar to what happened in Sabtang, our desire to get out of that darned boat propelled us to get out quickly. There was a jeep waiting for passengers, and we hopped on, eager to go back to Novita house to change out of our wet clothes and rest. We were glad we left Sabtang when we did, because as soon as the jeep pulled out of the port, the rain poured.

Plans for more sight seeing that afternoon was scrapped, as we were too exhausted (and sick) to be going anywhere. Plus, the rain was such a party poop. Nevertheless, it gave us the perfect excuse to take it easy and relax.

Did you know that you can fly to Batanes for as low as Php 5,800+? That’s right, with Seair’s FlySaver fares, one-way fares go as low as Php 35! That’s excluding taxes, of course. Book now, so you can have your own Sabtang adventure!

Sea to Summit products are available at the Recreational Outdoor Exchange (R.O.X.) store in Bonifacio High Street, Global City, Taguig.

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There we met with Tita Remy, the caretaker of Novita House, our home for the next four days. The province of Batanes is a protected zone, and each tourist are required to pay environmental protection fees as they arrive and depart in Basco. The fee upon arrival is Php 50, while the fee when you leave is Php15. Up until recently, flights to Basco are few and far between, so locals who are flying in from Manila usually bring home a lot of goods for resale or for the family’s own stock (much like Filipinos flying to the US with balikbayan boxes full of Lucky Me instant pancit canton and Purefoods corned beef). Unloading the baggages took longer than usual, which is pretty absurd considering that it’s a pretty small aircraft. Soon enough our bags are out and we made our way to Novita House.

Tita Remy assured us that the house was within walking distance from the airport, and we sighed with relief when we came unto the house. It WAS within walking distance!* We settled into our rooms and prepared for the day ahead. Through Tita Remy, we were able to rent a multicab** that would take us to several sites around Batan Island. With our cameras and water bottle, we set off to explore Batanes.

Basco Lighthouse

Our first stop was one of Batanes’ landmarks: the Basco Lighthouse. Set on the Naidi hill just on the outskirts of town, the lighthouse has a spectacular view of the sea, the dramatic cliffs and Mt. Irayat. The place was practically deserted, save for some cattle grazing. The lighthouse is no longer operating, but the building was open and you can climb all the way up. Though not in use, the structure was in surprisingly good condition. The view from high up shows us the town of Basco sprawled below, and the sights of more hills and mountains in the distance.

Valugan Beach

After some serious camwhoring (mainly us taking photos of a certain travel blogger who we shall hide under the pseudonym Byahilo), we hopped back into the multicab and drove towards the eastern coast of Batan island. Valugan beach, as it says in the sign that welcomes us, “manifests the volcanic effusions from Mt. Iraya that is an important geologic formation in the archipelago. The geomorphic resource provided by Valugan beach provides rich information in the land formation of Batanes.” The shore was covered by smooth rocks of different sizes, which hosts different shellfish and mollusks, providing food for the Ivatans.

Next in the day’s itinerary was the Tukon Radar. An abandoned weather station, the hill offers magnificent 360 degrees views of Batan Island, South China Sea and the Pacific ocean. Mt. Iraya is seen in the North, while in the south you can see the rolling hills leading up to Mt. Matarem.

Our view from Monica Fadullo’s Cottage

It was almost noon, so we started driving down to Mahatao, where our lunch awaits. We drove through the hills and on the side of the mountains, dropping every so often to take photos of the spectacular sceneries. We arrive at Monica Fadullo’s Cottage in Sitio Diura, Mahatao, where Tita Remy arranged for our lunch. For only Php 150, we had a very filling lunch of Ivatan Laoya Baka (Nilagang Baka or Beef cooked in broth with vegetables), Ivatan Pork Lonyes (Crispy Fried Pork) and Fried Idek (Fried Blue Sea Chub fish). We had a gorgeous view of the sea and the cloud-shrouded Mt. Iraya in the distance.

Ocean view from Marlboro Country

There were more to see in Basco, so right after lunch, we headed off to Racuh A Payaman, more popularly known as Marlboro Country. Named because its resemblance to the setting of the cigarette ad, the ranch is a series of rolling hills where cattle graze freely. Visitors are advised to stay on the trail, as the animals in the ranch are undomesticated. Marlboro Country is easily one of my favorite places in Batanes. There’s this feeling of calm that you get when you enter the ranch, and you feel one with the environment. Though we wanted to stay longer and take in the view, we had to pry ourselves off the ground and get back to the multicab to explore more of Batan.

En route to Ivana, we passed through the ghost town of Songsong, a tiny seaside community that got hit by a tsunami in 1953. Though there weren’t any casualties, the town is now deserted, as the residents abandoned the community, and was evacuated to Mindanao. We also passed the abandoned US Coast Guard Station, where low, squat buildings still stand.

San Jose de Ivana Church

The town of Ivana is where the boats leave for Sabtang, and it’s also where the famed Honesty Cafe is. You’d have to wonder why a simple sari-sari store would get such a publicity, but once you step inside, you’ll realize that there’s no one minding the shop! Prices for all the items in the shop are marked in several signs, and whoever gets anything from the store must list down the things they bought in the logbook, along with the amount they put inside the box. There’s no way for you to get change, so be sure to have the exact amount prepared! Just short walk from the Honesty Cafe is the San Jose de Ivana Church. Like the most churches in Batanes, the church has an interesting Baroque facade, made with lime and stone.

Lola Ida of the House of Dakay

The sun was going down and we were running low on energy, so we made a hasty retreat to the multicab and headed to the House of Dakay. This stone house built in 1887 has survived earthquakes and typhoons, and it’s still home to Florestida Estrella, who inherited the house from her great grandfather. Like most Ivatan houses, the house had meter-thick walls made of coral and lime to withstand the harsh winds and rains, and cogon-thatched roof that’s almost a foot-thick. The house and its occupant are readily the most photographed structure and personality in Batanes. Lola Ida’s face has graced numerous magazines, and she sighs that she hardly see any of them. She has welcomed a lot of tourists to her house through the years, and she has her script down to pat. I kinda feel for her though — to have all those people knocking on your door, asking a million questions and taking countless photos.

We ended the Batan island tour at the Mahatao view deck. We were an hour away till sundown, and we wiled away the time, resting on the many benches that line the deck. Sunset photos taken, and we headed back to Novita House, stopping at the public market to buy ingredients for our dinner. As Melo was preparing dinner, Tita Remy arrived, carrying three kilos of lobster. At only Php 300 per kilo, these lobster was a great bargain, not to mention the perfect way to cap a wonderful day.

* People from the provinces are used to walking long distances, and from experience, their concept of “within walking distance” is greatly different from our perception.
** Basically a tiny flat bed truck with seats along the side.

Seair flies five times a week to Basco from Manila. Flights out of Manila leaves at 5:50 am, and flights back departs Basco at 7:55 am. For reservations call 8490100 or 8437308 to inquire about SEAIR Leisure Escape Packages. You can also book online at www.flyseair.com.

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My favorite travel buddies: Dino, Marc, Eric, Melo, Gail and Karla

What I love about early morning flights is the traffic-less EDSA. Living in the north, travel time to the airport during rush hour can be terribly time consuming — it can take from one to two hours to get from my house in Quezon City to one of the airports in Parañaque City. Before the traffic starts, travel time can be cut to almost 30 minutes.

Using the old domestic terminal can usually be an ordeal: it’s too small, too cramped and too many people are using it. Thanks to the opening of the new NAIA Terminal 3, the number of passengers using the old domestic terminal has significantly gone down. Now, only two commercial airlines use the old terminal, one of which is Seair.

The pre-departure lounge was almost empty — a world of difference from the last time we used the terminal last June, when it was packed to the seams. We sat down, chatting amongst ourselves to pass the time while waiting for the flight to be called. The clock ticked past 5:50 am, and still no call. Soon enough, there was an announcement: flight DG601 bound for Basco was delayed. We were dismayed, but the announcement didn’t really come as a shock; for days we’ve been monitoring the weather in Batanes, and it was anything but sunny. We thought of possible places we can go instead, if flying to Basco wasn’t feasible. Melo wasn’t hearing any of it, and went to inquire among the ground staff. It seems the flight was only delayed because the airport office in Basco only opens at 6 o’clock in the morning. The people in Manila have to confer with its Basco counterparts before allowing the plane to fly.

Soon enough Seair flight DG601 was called — but for Boracay! It was an honest mistake on the part of the announcer, but it was indeed for the flight to Basco, Batanes. Within minutes we were onboard the Dornier 328 plane. It was my first time to fly north, and it was interesting to see how different the view from the plane was from all the flights I’ve taken going south. After reading through two Inflight magazines, the fasten seatbelt sign flashed — we are on the final descent to Basco. I eagerly looked out the window to see mountainous islands, the green stretching as far as the eye can see. I can see small roads hugging the sides of the mountain, small communities, and even smaller patches of beaches. We’re in Batanes!

Welcome to Batanes, where Jesus is Lord!

A huge thanks goes out Seair, who provided our transport to Batanes. A shout out also goes out for Mr. Patrick, Seair’s VP for Marketing, and his assistant, Leo for making this possible. Thanks guys!

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