Mababaw lang ang kaligayahan namin

Back in December 2010, Cla, Chris and I were driving from the Kalibo airport and into the town when we saw Jenny’s sign near the plaza. For some reason, we fixated on it. It didn’t help that Chris and her family, who have been living in Kalibo for years, have no clue who this person was. It was easy enough to search for information on Facebook, but unfortunately, Cla and I weren’t able to come back to Aklan for the 2011 ati-atihan festival, and Chris was running a fever and therefore, wasn’t able to look for her.

This year, we were all set for ati-atihan, but Chris sadly reports that there was no tarps announcing her return to this year’s festival. Once again, Facebook comes to the rescue and we found out that Jenny will be parading with her band of super heroes.

The downpour throughout the afternoon put a damper to our spirits. After the rain has stopped for some time, we ventured out, hopeful but not entirely optimistic. We were swept away by the music and the energy of the crowd, and as we rounded a corner, Cla suddenly yells that she has spotted the Wonder Woman of Aklan.

It may seem weird that we’re fixating on this person dressing up as a superhero, but there’s something about her that makes us happy. Different strokes for different folks, and if there’s something that you know would make you happy, go out and go after that something.

Kalibo is already in fiesta mode, even if the main event isn’t until Sunday. Every afternoon, there are activities around the city that goes on until late in the evening.

If you are flying into Kalibo enroute to Boracay or flying out of Kalibo from Boracay, bear in mind that a portion of the main road is closed to vehicular traffic. Give plenty of time allowance if you will be catching a flight. The weather forecast for the next couple of days is rain, so come prepared with your rain gear and waterproofs if you want to take photos or participate in the festival.

Believe it or not, that’s a part of the trail map of the Bakhawan Eco Park

While most tourists that pass through Kalibo only stay long enough to board a bus or van to Caticlan, there are those that head to this municipality every third weekend of January for the ati-atihan festival.

I’ve done those two, so when there was an opportunity to stay with a friend who lives in Kalibo, I quickly grabbed it.

Chris, our host, took us to Bakhawan Eco Park, an eco-tourism project of the local community that spans 170 hectares in Baranggay New Buswang. It’s just a short drive from the town center. There are no jeeps or multicabs that come this way, so best to ride a tricycle. Entrance to the eco park is Php 15 per person, while cottage rental, if needed, costs Php 100.

Path through the mangrove

It was an 800 meter stroll on a bamboo walkway raised about 3 to 4 feet off the ground, through the mangrove forest. The bamboo were already showing signs of age, but were still quite stable. You’d have to watch where you step at some point though. It was a pleasant walk, with the trees providing shade and the gentle breeze from the sea cooling you off as you near the end of the path. There are 2 rest stops along the path, with cottages at the end for picnics.

All that’s missing is a brown bear…

Chris tells us that the landscape in the swamp has changed. Typhoon Frank’s path through the Visayas left Kalibo with a terrible mudslide that affected the town for over a week. Most of the mud flowed out to the mangrove forest. Where there used to be a beach and water, now only has mud.

Dolly meet at the Bakhawan Eco Park

Despite the distance of the sea from the cottages, we were still able to appreciate the relative serenity of the place (there were a bunch of teenagers singing Justin Beiber songs in the cottage right next to us). After munching on some ban mi that Chris’ aunt packed for us, we moved on to unpack, pose and take pictures of our dolls. Since it was a weekday, there were hardly anybody in the place — no busy bodies getting in between our lenses and collection.

Following the path up Manduyog Hill

Next in the itinerary was the Aklan State University campus in the town of Banga. It’s approximately 15-minute drive from Kalibo, or one multi-cab ride (just ask the driver to drop you off at the ASU gate). The university lies at the foot of the Manduyog Hill, a pilgrimage site owing to the life-size stations of the cross that line the 750-meter path that winds around the hill all the way to the summit, where there’s a huge cross and a chapel.

Aklan State University Fruit Juice

While the path is not paved, it’s an easy enough walk up to the fifth Station of the Cross. Can’t really say if it gets easier or harder beyond that since we decided to walk back to the car. Following the path does have a meditative feel to it — I felt if we weren’t pressed for time, we would have ended up walking all the way to the top.

To cool off, Chris had us try ASU’s home grown product: fruit juices. Packed in an unassuming and unimpressive plastic bag, Cla and I were instant converts after the first sip. Coming in flavors like calamansi, calamandarin, szincon, the package boasts that its ingredients only includes natural fruit juices, water and sugar. At only Php 10 per pack, it’s a cheap and healthy way to refresh yourself.

Ati-atihan dolls by Precious Moments

We drive next to the town of New Washington, hometown of Jaime Cardinal Sin (RIP) and now home to Sam Butcher, the man behind the Precious Moments brand. An American artist and minister, he fell in love with the Philippines and settled in New Washington, where he built his home and the Sampaguita Gardens Resort that offer accommodations, convention hall and Jojo’s Christmas Cottage — a year-round exhibit and store of Precious Moments goods. There’s a Php 50 fee to enter the complex, but it’s fully consumable.

Before heading home, we stopped by the town plaza where the square was lighted up with festive Christmas lights and the air was filled with drumming sounds of groups practising for the Ati-atihan 2011. It’s interesting to see the community come together like this — kids and teenagers involved in the festival, people hanging out with the rest of the town out of doors, instead of cooped in their houses watching soap operas. It’s making me want to consider leaving the city for a quiet life in the province.

I found out later on that it was the week of the Ati-atihan festival in Kalibo. Though I will be flying into the Caticlan Airport, I thought I might as well make the most out of the trip and take that one and a half hour ride to Kalibo and witness the mother of all festivals.

The Ati-atihan is held in the honor of the Sto. Niño, much like the Sinulog festival (which is being held simultaneously in Cebu) and the Dinagyang Festival of Iloilo (which will be held next weekend). It’s a week-long affair, concluding on the third Sunday of January. Though Kalibo is the main venue of the festival, other towns also have their own ati-atihan celebration: Boracay on the second Sunday, and the town of Itbajay on the fourth Sunday.

Maybe it’s because I didn’t stay long enough or explored the parade route, but this festival is rather toned down compared to the festivals I’ve seen last year. The outlandish costumes were certainly present: there were people dressed up as eagles, dressed up as horses and dressed in… pink. Yeah, I think I need to rest before going to festivals. I’m usually too exhausted to enjoy them.

Nonetheless, it was an experience. I love how people are so passionate about the ati-atihan, from the smallest kids to the oldest grandmother who still dances. More than anything, the ati-atihan is a family affair — I saw fathers and mothers with their children dancing in the streets. The festival, no doubt, is truly a part of their tradition.

I left Kalibo around 2:30pm, just as the last contingent inside the Magsaysay Park left to join the parade because I wanted to arrive in Boracay before dark. I was dozing on the van all the way to Caticlan, dreaming of the next time I go back for Ati-atihan.

Seair flies daily to Boracay, with as much as 11 flights from Manila to Caticlan. Book your flight now by calling the Seair hotline at 849 0100 or book online through www.flyseair.com.