Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

That’s why when I got the invite from Cebu Pacific to visit Hanoi, I jumped on the chance to really see what Hanoi has to offer.

Cebu Pacific flies to Hanoi three times a week from Manila. The flight arrives in Hanoi just past midnight, and flies back at 1 am, giving tourists an entire day to explore the city after and before their flight. Perfect for a weekend getaway.

Though the trip was just a tad longer than my previous trip to Hanoi, I was able to see and do a lot more. Here are the things I loved about this city:

Four seasons

It’s rather gray in November, but it’s a bit nippy and I love that.

Located in the northern regions of Vietnam, Hanoi has four seasons in a year, unlike in Ho Chi Minh. It was June when I first went to Vietnam, and the weather was hot and humid, not the perfect combination when traveling (for me, anyway). So when we went there last November, I was ecstatic, because it meant Autumn weather! It was in the low 20°C during the day, and dips down to around 15-18°C in the evening. That is bliss.

Cyclo Tour

That’s Hanoi traffic for you.

When I travel, I like walking around to get to know a city. I remember my frustration in 2010, when walking in Hanoi’s Old Quarter meant dodging motorbikes and squeezing through narrow sidewalks.

But at least you get to see this

I found out that the best way to get an overview of the city and and have a literal front row seat to the crazy Vietnamese traffic is to ride the cyclo. These are one-person rickshaws where the drivers are seated right behind you, and you have a wide view of oncoming traffic. It’s scary at times, but it really is a fun way to familiarize yourself with the Old Quarter.

Temple of Literature

The inner couryard

We went around the usual attractions of Hanoi — Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum, the One Pillar Pagoda, the Water Puppet Show — but the one place that really stood out to me is the Temple of Literature. Built in 1070 as a temple of Confucius, and played host to the first national university in the country.

It’s a good place to people watch in November

In November, it’s where graduating students flock in their finest ao dai and suits, and have their graduation photos taken. Though I’m not fond of crowds, seeing and feeling the excitement of the students was enough to propel me to join the crowds heading into the inner courtyards. Also, the place is big enough that there are pockets of empty space if you want to take breather and people watch like a creeper.

Hoan Kiem Lake

I’d love to live close to such a beautiful lake

In the Old Quarter lies the Hoan Kiem Lake, which has the Turtle Tower in a small island, and the red Huc Bridge that connects Jade Island where the Temple of the Jade Mountain is. It’s a popular place for the locals to hang out in, and a very lovely place to take photos, or just to relax if the chaos is starting to get to you.

Hidden cafes

Egg coffee and chocolate

Vietnam has some pretty great coffee places, but if you’re looking for something different, try the egg coffee at Cafe Pho Co on Hang Gai street in the Old Quarter. It’s a very creamy and foamy drink, which pairs well with the strong espresso it’s served with. For non-coffee drinkers, there’s also a hot (or cold) chocolate version, and fresh fruit shakes.

IGNORING YOU

Apart from the coffee, part of the appeal, I think, of Cafe Pho Co is its location and premises. It’s tucked inside a building, so you’ll have to enter through a very narrow and a bit dark lane to enter. You’ll come into a small courtyard where you’ll have to give and pay for your order. Afterwards, you’ll make your way up to their three dining areas. The most popular is the one at the very top, where you have a very nice view of the lake. Also, if you’re lucky, the family cat will be there (though he’ll probably ignore all your attempts at friendship).

Vietnamese food

Streetside eats

A trip to Vietnam, of course, meant eating lots of their delicious cuisine. There are ladies walking around peddling snacks, or you can grab a quick bite from the many street-side stalls.

Always pho bo

My favorites for this trip though, was the custom pho station at the Crown Plaza West Hanoi Hotel, where you get to pick what goes into your bowl. Their breakfast buffet spread is pretty extensive, so you can probably assemble your own banh mi as well.

Don’t look at them as vegetables — they’re yummy herbs that will give your tongue the best flavor explosion.

If you’re ready to venture beyond pho and banh mi, go for bun cha. This is a noodle dish served with grilled pork, spring rolls, pickled vegetables and mounds of herbs. It’s glorious. The one we went to was Nha Hang Dac Kim Bun Cha in Hang Manh road.

Halong Bay sans the crowd

Junks lined up at Halong Bay

When I took the day trip to Halong Bay from Hanoi in 2010, the tour bus picked me up from my guesthouse in the Old Quarter at around 8 in the morning, and had me back in the city by 6pm. A lot of tourists do this same tour, so expect Halong to be crowded when you get there.

Hanoi Red Tours, our tour operator during our visit, had us driving to Ha Long in the afternoon. It’s a 3-hour bus ride, and we arrived just in time for dinner. We stayed in a hotel with a view of the bridge, and set off early for Halong Bay.

Selling fruits in the middle of the bay

The great thing about this, is that even if there are other tours doing the same thing, it’s still not as crowded than if you arrive later. By the time you dock back in the port, the groups from Hanoi are just arriving.

Entering the lagoon

This trip is similar to the one I took back in 2010, but with one big difference: we boarded a smaller paddle boat that took us to see the lagoons hidden in the karst formations. It’s really nice and relaxing. Other tours offer kayaking trips, but I like this one better since there’s somebody else doing the paddling.

Flamingo Dai Lai Resort

Our cabin for a couple of hours

Right before we left, we dropped by the Flamingo Dai Lai Resort. It’s about an hour from Hanoi and about 30 minutes from the airport. It’s a sprawling estate in the Vinh Phuc province and offers serenity in nature and luxurious accommodations.

Beautiful room

The cabins come with their own private dipping pool, and a humongous tub carved out of stone. It was too cold for a dip in the pool, but a hot soak in the tub is just perfect. There was even a cabin with the tub outside, so you can just image how fantastic that’d be in the colder months. There’s also a couple of bikes in the cabin, should you wish to explore the resort (or even to just go to the restaurant). If you can’t ride a bike, you’d need to call the front desk to request for a shuttle to take you around.

Imagine it’s winter, and you’re soaking in hot water in this tub. Hmmmmmmmm.

This is the kind of place that once you enter, you don’t want to go out anymore. There are outdoor activities available, and a spa for those who just want to take it slow. It’s certainly a beautiful end to our trip to Hanoi.

Thank you so much for giving me the opportunity to fully appreciate Hanoi, Cebu Pacific!

Morning traffic in Ho Chi Minh city

She was standing on the curb, about to ride her scooter, when she called out to me in English. “I saw you on the other street,” she said. “You’re in the wrong part of town. Did you just arrive in Hoi An?” I was never the type to start a conversation when I travel, so to have someone engage me in conversation can be a treat, specially after traveling solo for a couple of days. I was just to ecstatic to be talking to somebody that even when the word “tailoring shop” was thrown into the conversation, I shrugged it off, and instead hopped into the back of the scooter when she offered to take me to the Central Market, where her shop was.

As we were riding through town, I recalled a similar ride in Ko Phangan, Thailand. The lady at the travel agent offered to take me with her when she went to eat lunch. I don’t know how to ride a bike and that was my first time to ride a motorcycle. She took me to this place where the locals eat, and though I can’t remember what we had, I remembered I was so grateful for her generosity and hospitality.

This encounter was different though. My new friend’s charming demeanor slowly melted when we got to the market. She was getting a bit impatient while I was eating my late lunch at her friend’s stall, and when we got to her sister’s shop, it has completely vanished. She wasn’t rude, you just can’t help but feel so used, specially since after going through the tailor’s catalogs and materials, she was pushing me to her friend who makes custom shoes, and even to an old lady who was doing mani & pedi.

I had another similar encounter in Hue, but not as bad as that encounter in Hoi An. I was making my way to the Citadel, and came upon this bridge. There was a no entry sign and most of the traffic were going in the opposite direction. I stop to ask a shopkeeper if I can go through this bridge and she said yes. Before I can leave she invites me to sit down under the tree for some drinks. The sun was pretty high up, so I figured I’d take her up on her offer and wait until it’s a little cooler before proceeding. Like the lady in Hoi An, she was very curt when I paid for my drink.

As I recounted these encounters to Carlo, a reader who’s been to Vietnam before, he describes the Vietnamese as very enterprising. I, on the other hand, would describe them as very good sales people who lack after sales service. But this is not to say that the Vietnamese are just after your money nor do they fail in customer service. I had more positive encounters in Vietnam, except that it’s the negative experiences that you remember sometimes.

On my first day in HCMC, the guesthouse staff gave me a dragon fruit, mainly because they have some (their standard breakfast is a baguette and a banana, so this is a treat). She even opened it for me, because I was just staring at the fruit, figuring out how to eat it. The guesthouse staff in Hanoi were also very nice. They were all so attentive, specially Ms. Chau who was treat everyone like they’re a part of her own family.

Of course, there might be some biases there, since these were service people. Luckily, I got to chat with some Vietnamese who weren’t in the payroll of any hostels I’ve stayed in or were in any way getting money from me, and they were genuinely nice. There was the couple who was in the same tour as I was in Hue. They were on a holiday, and we were soon chatting about nice places to see around Vietnam as we sit along the banks of the Perfume river. There was also the Vietnamese family who shared their baon (packed lunch) with me and another foreigner during our lunch on board the boat.

The most memorable though was the businessman who was on the same overnight bus to Hanoi. We were waiting at the bus company’s office in Hue and as soon as a bus rolled to the curb, the people at the office swarmed towards it. As the staff inside the office were suddenly busy, I asked him if this was the bus to Hanoi. He said yes, but we would be getting on the second bus. The bus had some empty seats, so the staff told some of us remaining passengers that we can hop on board.

After two hours of mad honking and swerving, the bus pulled up to a small restaurant. As the local passengers took seats, I spot the businessman and asked if this stop was for dinner. He said yes, and as the restaurant was filling up, I asked if I can share the table. There the usual small chit-chat, but the dinner progressed in comfortable silence. I realize there’s really nothing noteworthy with this particular encounter, but it just shows that even when the Vietnamese can be very aggressive when they’re trying to sell you something, you don’t have to be wary all the time when you’re in the country because there are those who will show you kindness and flash a genuine smile.

This is my entry for the Blogsherpa Blog Carnival. This round, Encounters, is hosted by Camden Luxeford of The Brink of Something Else. The Blogsherpa is a project of Lonely Planet that displays bloggers posts about destinations or interests on lonelyplanet.com. Read the other entries here.

Vietnam was pretty cheap. Dining at the restaurants can set you back around Php 300, while dining in the streets or markets can go as low as Php 40. Accommodation is also relatively inexpensive. My rooms range from $15 to $18, all with air conditioning and a fan, with ensuite toilet & bath, cable TV, a closet and even a small fridge. While the xe om is the most popular way to getting around town, I prefer to hop on a cab. The taxis in Vietnam are well kept with good air conditioning. Meter starts at VND 9,000 for the small cars, VND 10,000 for the sedans and VND 12,000 for the vans (depends on the company). Be careful about the taxis though; there are rogue taxis that use a very fast meter! They use the same name as the big cab companies, only changing one letter and using almost identical hotline numbers.

Krabi, on the otherhand, is pretty expensive (as expected). However, in the midst of the Thai and Italian restaurants, there are small street stalls selling noodles and rice. I stayed in Ao Nang beach, and it’s small enough to walk around. You can take the tuktuk around town, but to go beyond, you’d either have to ride the government songtheow (with routes to Krabi and other places) or hire a taxi (taxis in Krabi are Toyota Fortuner. Sosyal!)

Bangkok and Kuala lumpur are only in the itinerary for transit and shopping.

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Hanoi has been… interesting. The city has an old world charm. The streets are small in the Old Quarter, lined with shop houses with French and Chinese influences. Sidewalks are nearly non-existent as some shops extend their wares, while most use it as a parking spot for their motorcycles.

Walking in Hanoi is an experience you’d hardly forget. Since the sidewalks are occupied, you are forced to walk in the streets, dodging cars, motorcycles, bicycles and other pedestrians going in all directions. Count on getting lost when you go out to explore, as street names change when you cross an intersection.

Like the other three Vietnamese cities and town I’ve been in, Hanoi has parks that everyone enjoys. It’s where the elderly do their tai chi in the morning, where the workers cool off on a hot afternoon and where the young ones hang out in the evenings.

Hanoi’s heat makes it uncomfortable to go walking during the day. The best course of action is to start out early when it’s not too hot (this works great since the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum is only open from 7am to 11am), take refuge in an airconditioned place (like the Vincom Tower, which has a mall and a cineplex) or have a siesta to make up for waking up early, and setting out again as the sun goes down.

For going long distances, you can take the cyclo, a bicycle-like contraption where passengers sit on the front and the driver peddaling on the back. You can also ride a xe om, or a motorcycle scooter, either with you driving or hop on the back of a motorcycle taxi. Then there are the regular taxis. There are three kinds of taxi that ply Hanoi’s roads: the small cars (flag down at 9,000 VND), the regular sedans (flag down at 10,000 VND) and the mini vans (flag down at 12,000 VND). I’m a notorious taxi rider. They have airconditioning and are generally more comfortable, specially in traffic. In all of the taxi rides I’ve had in Vietnam, the drivers automatically use the meter. Unfortunately, some meter move so much faster than others, so watch that meter lest you end up with a 292,000 VND fare for a 34,000 VND ride.

Hanoi is also the jumpoff point for many Ha Long Bay tours. You can easily book a day trip, overnight or multiple day tours to this World Heritage site. From Hanoi, it’s a 3.5 hour drive to the city of Halong (with the 30-minute stop over, it’s closer to 4 hours). There’s a huge wharf where the ships are docked. Fashioned to look like the traditional Chinese Junks, these ships are equipped with a dining area and sleeping areas for the overnight cruises.

There are more than 1,900 islands in the bay, made up of towering limestone karsts. It can be impressivefor those who are seeing these for the first time, but after Palawan, it wasn’t so unusual for me anymore. What impressed me though is the cave. The ship docks at one of the islands and you go up the stairs into the cave. It’s quite a climb, but it gives you a spectacular view of the bay and the ships below. Once you get up, you go down some ways again to explore the cave. It has a cavernous (pun not intended) interior with high domes, stalactites and stalagmite formations, made even more dramatic with both artificial lighting and sunlight streaming from the cave opening. What I really liked about the cave is how they managed to fix it, making it easier for people to walk through so you can see everything without backtracking. The separate entrance and exits makes it easy for everyone to go through the attraction.

Back in Hanoi, I did what I always try to do when I travel overseas: watch a movie. I don’t know why, but I like watching movies when I travel, comparing cinemas in each country I’ve been in. It’s also a great reason for me to skip a city tour in favor of airconditoned comfort inside the Megastar Cineplex. The seats are comfortable, and the theatre, though small, wasn’t full. And much to my relief, they did not dub Toy Stoy 3 into Vietnamese.

I’m now minutes away from boarding. I was hoping to have a last bowl of pho for breakfast, but I ended up with katsudon instead. All the more reason to go back to Hanoi, yes?

Sayuri celebrated her birthday at the Imperial City

A visit to Hue is not complete without going to the Imperial City. Enclosed in a citadel across the Huong River, the walls are imposing and thick. When you pass through the arch that serves as a gate, it’s like you stepped back to a different time.

The Citadel, Imperial city and the pagodas, temples and tombs that you can see along the Perfume river shows the strong influence of the Chinese in in the Vietnamese culture. The Citadel and the Imperial city can be reached by foot from the city center, but be prepared with comfortable shoes and clothes.

Thien Mu Pagoda

Going inside the Imperial City elicits the same awe upon seeing the Angkor Wat for the first time (for me anyway). What circus you may chance upon outside disappears once you go through the gates. Buildings painstakingly restored to their former glory greets your eyes, and you find yourself automatically reaching for the camera and clicking away.

Khai Dinh Tomb

The pagodas and tombs along the Perfume river are impressive as well. What endeared me to them though weren’t the structures, but the lovely views of the river and the seemingly endless expanse of green. It’s the kind of place you’d want to go back to, if only to sit down and savor the quiet solitude.

I woke up early to catch my bus to Hue. I waited for the bus in my guesthouse, and it arrived five minutes before 8am. From the distance it looked impressive, but as it pulled up, I notice with dismay that some windows were open. It’s not an airconditioned bus.

With a sigh I stepped into the bus, welcomed by a sea of feet and crotches. This is a sleeping bus: instead of regular seats, you get something like loungers as chairs. There are three lines of double deck loungers, and at the end, five laid out side by side like a huge bed.

I settled on my sleeper seat. Despite the heat, I enjoyed leaning back and proping my feet up on Viktor (my backpack) as we rolled out of Hoi An. The ride was pleasant enough, if not for the lack of cool air. We briefly enjoyed the cool mountain breeze, but just as it was getting much cooler, it gruffly replaced by a gush of hot wind as we entered a tunnel that goes through the mountain.

Save for the sweat and the occasion whiffs of earthly aromas from outside and human scents from within, this was a relaxing drive. There might be a speed limit in the city limits, as the bus driver never sped up, except when we got up in the mountains.

Of course, in the middle of that heat, the bus had to make a stop to have wheel fixed. Still, despite this setback, we rolled into Hue just past 12 noon.

The airconditioning gods must hate me that much, because once I got into my room, I discovered that there is no electricity. So instead of catching my breath and cooling off, I was forced to head to the nearby supermarket to seek refuge (and wifi!).

I’m liking Hue. After killing time at the supermarket, I made my way into the Imperial City. Sure, there are touts there, much like in any tourist places around the world, but the serenity you feel inside the walled city more than make up for it.

More posts about Hue tomorrow (or the next day, depends on when I feel like writing again). I’ve got to rest up before the full day tour tomorrow.

* Title is a line from Why God, one of the songs from Miss Saigon

Hainan Chinese Temple in Hoi An’s old quarter

That’s what happened to me in Hoi An.

I arrived in Hoi An around 3:30pm from Ho Chi Minh via Da Nang. I was feeling cranky because I haven’t had lunch yet, but my spirits picked up as the taxi pulled into Hoi An. Unlike other legs of this trip, I haven’t booked a room in Hoi An. The reviews on Travelfish were uninspiring, and I figured I’d try looking for one when I get into town. The receptionist at my guesthouse in Saigon referred a hotel that would give me a good price if I say that I got the referral from them, so I decided to try it out.

Swimming Pool, the mirror behind the reception screams. Hoi An is a very popular destination, specially for those traveling overland from HCMC to Hanoi, so competition is fierce among the hostels. That’s why they would try to outdo each other with pools, free wifi, breakfast. In theory, it’s us, the customers who win because we have more options and (theoretically) better service.

Take my current hotel for example. They offered me a room for $12 without aircon. If I’m going to use the aircon, the rate for my room would be $15. So up we went through 4 flights of stairs, passing by the swimming pool looking so blue and inviting in the heat. The room was at the top floor, and it was disconcerting to see the short door. However, there was more than ample head room inside (though I really don’t get the short door. Did they run out of material?). The room was huge and it looked great. It was a double room with ensuite toilet, cable TV, fridge and a tiny veranda that looks out into the room across from mine and the one underneath it (and the occupant’s underwear that was left on the bed).

Looks nice no? Vinh Huy Hotel room. Book with caution.

However, once you get over the initial awe and start “living” in your room, you notice a lot of things. First, there’s no Starworld, National Geographic nor Discovery channel on TV. So much for cable — there’s only so much Start Sports and BBC World that I can take. The shower, though impressive with ths sliding doors to keep the water out does not have any soap dish inside so you’d have to keep opening and closing the sliding doors to get your shower things. Don’t even get me started on the water heater that doesn’t work (not that you need hot water; it’s been very hot in Hoi An). It was hot in my room so I gave notice at the reception that I wanted to use the airconditioning. They said yes and flipped the switch for the airconditioning unit in my room. Come nightfall, I was back in my room and sweating. The aircon was turned on but the room wasn’t getting any cooler. There’s no remote to check the thermostat.

Today, when I went down, I was told that I had to move to another room, since a group was checking in and needed the room I was staying in. Inside my new room, I immediately realize that my old room was part of the hotel’s new wing; my current room is dated. It shows its age: the TV and fridge has seen better days, the side table missing a drawer. The bathroom tries to impress with its tub, but it fails because there’s no shower curtain to keep the water off the bathroom floor. At $15 a night, I suppose I shouldn’t be expecting too much.

Back to my first day in Hoi An, I set off from the hotel in good spirits. I went out to look for something to eat and promptly got lost. While I was walking I was marveling how different Hoi An is from Ho Chi Minh; how peaceful life in this small town compared to the chaos of the capital. Nobody was even hassling me to buy their wares, a surprise since all the guidebooks warn travelers about this.

No pressure lah.

I must have looked more lost than I thought because a woman on a scooter chatted me up, saying she saw me on the other street and told me I was going the wrong way. She offered to take me to the ancient city. She owns a shop in the market she says. She’s a tailor. That set off the alarms in my head, but I was too eager to talk to people that I ignored it and went with her.

I knew what I was getting into. I figured, since this is what people go to Hoi An for, might as well be all touristy and try it out. The problem is, once you showed interest in one store, EVERYBODY pegs you as the tourist who has money to burn. One girl makes custom made shoes, an old lady does massage and manicure. They were all very persistent, and they all seemed unfriendly once I said no and walked away.

That pretty much set my mood towards Hoi An. I ventured out of the market and walked around the ancient city. Hoi An has a ticketing system for the top draws of the old quarters, but there are no clear signs around town. In one of the temples I entered, the caretakers with very limited English asked for my ticket. I said I didn’t have any and asked if I can buy from them. They said yes, but they didn’t give me a ticket, and they made gestures to put my 100,000 dong bill in the donation box. I walked out. I prefer to make my donations voluntarily, as it’s supposed to be.

My stay in Hoi An wasn’t a total loss though. I thoroughly enjoyed my trip to the beach this morning. Cua Dai beach is 4km from the town so I hailed a taxi to take me there. Unfortunately, despite looking like a brand new Toyota, the aircon doesn’t work. Didn’t stop it from racking up 68,500 dong in the meter though.

Sayuri at Cua Dai beach

Negativity aside, the beach was gorgeous. It exceeded my expectation. I would imagine this is how every overpopulated, overly developed beaches around the world started. The driver dropped me off at a beachside restaurant that has a gorgeous spot in the long stretch of fine white sand beach. There’s nothing like the sights and sound of the sea to calm you down.

I’m leaving Hoi An today for Hue. I had such high expectations of Hoi An, which I think partly the reason why I’m so disappointed. The old quarter, while preserved, is overrun with shops that distracts from what the small town is known for.

It’s my first time in Vietnam and so far, I’m loving it. I’m loving the food an awful lot, though I seem to be the only one not enamored with the ban mi (baguette sandwich).

Nazuna and the Notre Dame

I love walking around Saigon. Admittedly, I had great trepidations about going to Vietnam after reading about how crazy the motorcycle traffic is. Crossing the street is not my strong suit, and the prospect walking in a city swarming with it is just too much.

Still I ventured out of my room and out into the streets of Ho Chi Minh. I was so glad I did because HCMC is a lovely, walkable city, crazy motorcycles notwithstanding. The city (the parts I’ve walked through anyway) is surprisingly green. Trees line the streets and there’s a number of public parks where you can sit down and rest after all that walking.

Of course, the hurdles come with every intersection. While there are zebra crossings in most streets, the motorists will not stop for the pedestrians unless there’s someone directing the traffic. Traffic lights help make the crossing easier, though only for a little bit — a red light doesn’t necessarily mean that the motorcycles will stop. Most will, but you can count on a handful making a turn as soon as there’s a break in the traffic.

The freaky thing is, it all seem normal. Yesterday, while crossing a big intersection, in the midst of a sea of motorcycles flowing in one direction, there’s a few caught in the middle, slowly inching their way through. Crossing the streets of Saigon is pretty much the same ordeal — wait for a break in the traffic and just walk. Be mindful of the oncoming traffic, but don’t be scared. These drivers are used to pedestrians. They will not stop to let you pass, but they will avoid you so just keep walking forward.

And that’s what I’m going to do. I’m going to keep moving to overcome this blog slump. I’m sure you noticed I’ve been remiss with my blogging duties. I’ve been feeling uninspired lately and just can’t bring myself to write or create anything. I had every intention of doing my usual daily recap for this trip, but I thought it’d be best if I give myself a break and try to write little by little, take more pictures and heck, draw even though I don’t know how.

I do however, update my social networks more frequently. Pictures are already uploaded in my Vietnam set on flickr, and I’ve been posting updates on my Twitter and the Just Wandering page on Facebook. If you’re looking for trip updates, just follow me in any of those pages